Pairings for Paris in Spring
Bill Summerville’s notes on Paris in Spring —
This menu recalls an extended weekend we spent in Paris. We wandered (the French have a word for someone who does this- Flâneur) through the streets meandering as we wished. It was mid-morning and we stopped at Baron Rouge for oysters. We stood on the street and slipped these little briny beasts down our throats, she drank champagne and I had muscadet, both notoriously known for playing well with freshly shucked oysters and seafood in general. Lobster is no exception.
Be sure to ask for champagne from a grower-producer. This is a champagne producer who grows all their own grapes- very important. They oversee every aspect of the grape’s maturation unlike the big producers, who grow grapes, but also buy grapes in bulk like a commodity. Larmandier-Bernier is a favorite grower-producer.
It’s hard to imagine a white wine not pairing well with shellfish, but I’ve been recently more drawn to wines from coastal regions for seafood- Rias Baixas, Txakoli, Sherry, Provence, Liguria, Campania.
Invigorated, refreshed and almost a little hungrier we wandered again. We entertained crossing the Seine to go to our favorite hors d’Oeuvres bar, L’Avant Comptoir, but opted for discovering something new. And so we continued on until, looking up at the same time we saw Le Rubis, a zinc bar. Inside a few men in blue coveralls were just done with work and snacking on cured meats and drinking red wine.
I ordered what they were having. It turned out to be a simple burgundy and really good. We ate a type of meat wrapped in a savory pastry. She again had bubbles and commented how surprisingly beautiful it was with the meat pastry.
Do not be afraid to try unconventional pairings like champagne with a meat pastry, sometimes it’s about your mood more than anything else. We were celebrating Paris and being together and she wanted champagne- she always was the smart one.
We left in a bit of a reverie and walked quietly in no particular direction.
It does not matter where you are in Paris. You are in Paris.
Selections from France44
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rosé Frizant
A small family run winery in the south of France growing a multitude of different grapes throughout several different vineyard sites. This sparkling rosé is an ode to the frizzante style of Italian sparklers inspired by a family trip to Italy. It is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon coming largely from younger vines on the estate blended with 35% Mourvédre. This should be a lovely pairing with every single dish on the apéro and even with the lobster if you so choose.
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Luneau-Papin L'd'Or Muscadet
Domaine Luneau-Papin is one of the leading producers of single-vineyard and terroir-driven Muscadet. Pierre and Monique were among the first winemakers in the region to bottle single parcel representations of the Melón grape to highlight the unique terroir and microclimates of the region. Their L'd'Or is a highlight of the granite soils the grapes are grown in, and you can expect tart but not unripe fruit (think lemon and green apple). A knockout pairing for lobster and really ANY of the meal.
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Anne-Sophie Dubois Les Cocottes Fleurie
We love Anne-Sophie Dubois' wines, and so will you! A young winemaker who was born in Champagne, studied in Burgundy, and planted her roots in Beaujolais. While she makes her wines in a more traditional style (compared to the rest of Beaujolais), her Les Cocottes utilizes carbonic fermentation and the fruit aromas abound. While this entire meal could be enjoyed with white and sparkling wines, this Fleurie is a great choice for a red option. I think it will go particularly well with the apéro (I'm looking at the beef tartare specifically), but it is a light enough option that it could easily be enjoyed throughout the entire meal.
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Château D'Aqueria Tavel Rose 2023
Château D'Aqueria is one of the great estates of the Tavel AOC in the Rhone valley in France where they produce rich, fuller bodied roses that are amazing at the dinner table. The nose shows wild strawberry and raspberry and the medium plus palate has rich raspberry fruit with plum and anise notes. This will pair well with the Tartare and all the other savory dishes on the May menu.
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Domaine Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé 2022
Domaine Barraud is one of the greatest estates in the Maconnais consistently producing wines that rival their northern peers in the Cote d' Or for world class chardonnay production. Winemaker Julien Barraud who works alongside his sister Anais, practices organic and biodynamic viticulture and employs the use of older fondre and tank to age their wines. The 'Alliance' cuvee is a blend of old vine selections from their best terroir and always over delivers for the price. The ripe vintage in 2022 shows but there is acidity that lies beneath. The nose shows aromas of honey and yellow flowers and the medium plus bodied palate delivers rich apple butter and mineral with a long finish. This hedonistic white will play well with the Stuffed Lobster Souffle with crab.
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Pierre Bonhomme 'Le TelQuel' Rouge 2023
This charming red is made by natural winemaker Pierre Olivier Bonhomme. It is primarily composed of Gamay with a touch of Pinot Noir sourced from organically farmed vineyards in the Loire Valley, France. It shows ripe berry fruit and earthy notes on the nose and the medium bodied palate delivers wild raspberry fruit and minerality. This bistro red served at cellar temperature would pair nicely with French Onion soup served in a Lion's Head Tureen and accomplish a Parisian vibe.
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2023 Albert Mann, Pinot Blanc-Auxerrois, Alsace, France
This biodynamic wine, from the heart of Alsace, is a blend of 65% Auxerrois and 35% Pinot Blanc. It is made from 35-year-old vines grown on gravel and clay to give a fleshy, mineral and fruity wine. The Auxerrois contributes roundness with flavors of fuji apple, peach blossom, lemon custard and fresh biscuit aromas. A barely detectable amount of residual sugar provides structure while the acidity leaves a mouthwatering finish with minerality and subtle notes of white flowers and fresh orchard fruits like pears and elegant citrus. A classic and delightful match for the French onion soup (and also the cheese course!).
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N/V Casa de Saima, Baga, Bruto, Sparkling Rose, Bairrada, Portugal
Made from one of the flagship native red grapes of Portugal, Baga, this sparkling wine from the Bairrada region and is made in the traditional method of aging for 24 months on the lees to provide the classic toasty notes. The wine also exhibits a balanced of elegant red fruit and floral notes from the unique Baga variety. It is light, fresh and creamy on the palate and a perfect complement to anything on the May tasting menu, but would pair well with the tartar or lobster!
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2023 Chateau Pradeaux, Rose, Bandol, Provence, France
This rose is nothing like the typical Provence style Rose... It is intensely textured, showing depth and powerful complexity, yet still soft and mellow. The wine is a blend of 70% Mourvedre, with 27% Cinsault and 3% Grenache and fermented with native yeasts before aging on the lees for 8 weeks. The wine is then aged for 6-8 months in old cask before bottling. The result is a rich wine full of warm red fruits, and subtle tannins with plenty of spice, an ideal pairing with the lobster soufflé course or beef tartar.
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