Sommelier Notes for February
by Bill Summerville
Sometimes I need a map.
Sometimes I need a map for inspiration when it comes to writing to literally get oriented. Hauts-de-France is no exception. I’m pretty certain you have no idea where this area is. I certainly did not, but as I try to get my bearings on this under-appreciated and less-known area of France I realize how historically important it is.
Sitting just above Paris it is bordered by Belgium to the east and Normandy to the the west. Calais and Dunkirk, sister cities bound by their suffering and tenacity in World War II sit on its northern edge across from England’s White Cliffs of Dover.
This northern region is just a little too cold for red wine, but it is perfect for champagne, cider fruit and Belgian style beer, thus it is the land of bubbles, which is perfect for Hauts-de-France’s rich cuisine. Any of these beverages will pair well throughout the meal, but they’ll go especially well with apero courses cutting through the gooey cheese of the rarebit and gratin and the meatiness of the terrine.
I am not known as a beer drinker, but I do love a well-timed and bracingly cold pilsner or an almost room temp Guinness, especially with raw oysters. I did not believe it at first, but this is a classic pairing. Light and medium weight beer is one of the most versatile beverages for food as the flavors are not far from neutral and the bubbles cleanse the palate.
Hauts-de-France cider is not well represented locally so look for cider from Brittany and Normandy. The two regions are rivals in many aspects, but especially so in regards to cider. The one I will point you toward is Eric Bordelet, a Norman cider producer who left his sommelier position at the Michelin starred Arpège in Paris to take the helm at his family’s cider house. He returned to nurture the heirloom apple and pear trees that sometimes stretch seventy feet into the air. After harvesting, they dry the crated fruit in the orchards to heighten the flavors. I cannot explain here the joy of drinking Bordelet ciders. It will only come out as as cliché. Let’s just say you should give them the respect I give wine. The ciders range from bone-dry to off-dry or Doux. What we’re looking for is dry. And if you want to go local with cider seek out Keepsake Cidery from our own Cannon River Valley, truly a local gem.
Have a bottle of red (medium bodied, nothing too big) ready for the lamb, but please try a good champagne with the lamb first. You won’t regret it. Bubbles are wonderful with red meat. And when it comes to champagne do not worry about it being from Hauts-de-France, just be sure to ask for champagne from a grower-producer. This is a champagne producer who grows all their own grapes — very important. They oversee every aspect of the grape’s maturation unlike the big producers, who grow grapes, but also buy grapes in bulk like a commodity. Larmandier-Bernier is a favorite grower-producer.